Tenaya Oasi

The Oasis are a versatile slipper that can handle pretty much anything you can throw at it. I have been heavily using my pair for a few months now, and so far nothing about them has disappointed me.

I've spent long days bouldering (outdoors and in) with them, used them on slabby and steep sport climbs, and even spent some time in them on longer trad routes. They have shone in all scenarios.

FIT. 

These fit me perfectly, but make sure when sizing for yourself you get a size down. Once you dial in the size, they are incredibly glovelike. Unlike other downturned shoes I have tried, these are very ergonomic.

I have a fairly wide forefoot, and a regular heel. The Oasis have a funny looking swedge on the outside part of the heel that actually does an excellent job of grabbing your foot and still providing room.

COMFORT.

Absurdly comfortable. You have to consider how incredibly technical these are, and even despite a fairly aggressive downturn, they manage to achieve an all-day-wear feel. A break-in period was pretty much nonexistent, as I went climbing for a long session in Tahoe the day I got them.

Most climbing shoes I have owned let in tons of debris in any situation, but I put these through the wringer running between boulders in a pine forest, and got next to nothing inside the shoes. They have a mesh sock/liner that extends up a bit past the leather and rubber portions, and acts as a perfect barrier.

TRACTION.

Friction that rivals 5.10s, but also performs on absurdly hot slab. Nothing more to say on that.

TEMPERATURE CONTROL.

I find myself to be a moderately sweaty person, but even indoors in crazy heat these haven't felt slick or wet inside. The leather is a lifesaver, and the mech spots are well placed. I have not felt any hotspots with these, and as I said earlier, I've worn them for long strenuous sessions.

EASE OF USE.

Yes. The strap system is the best I've ever used, and it seems like you could effectively climb in them without the straps at all. They are incredibly adjustable, and quick to get on/off.

FEATURES.

They are not overplayed, and every claim I have seen about them has turned out to be true. You will definitely feel more confident and precise in your footwork, and your climbing should see an improvement as a result.

Before these, I had a pair of Evolv Nexxos that I spent nearly 4 months trying to break in. They basically serve the same purpose, but the Oasis are far more capable in a range of uses. There is no way I could wear the Nexxos longer than 15 minutes, let alone on a multipitch climb. I now plan to sell the Nexxos, and basically just use the Oasis for everything. 

DURABILITY.

I have only had my pair of Oasis for two months, but they've been through a lot in that time. In addition to daily climbing and bouldering, I've used them for scrambling on Sierra granite, and they show no wear at all. To my continuing surprise, that is not an exaggeration; whenever I wipe them clean, the rubber looks factory fresh. The only part of the shoe that is showing wear are the spots with white leather, and that is only some dirt staining.

I've used them in many different situations, but have not yet had the chance to climb any vertical cracks in them. I expect them to be capable in that situation, but maybe not as ideal as something more specialized.

All in all, if you like shoes that provide ground/rock feel and are adaptable to nearly every situation, these are for you. Just make sure you find them on sale.