La Sportiva Trango Prime

I am a lifetime La Sportiva loyalist, however, the Trango Prime fell short on performance in my opinion.

This spring on an attempt on the Liberty Ridge, Rainier I spent three days in this light, tough, comfortable, yet stiff boot. The problems began a few short hours after beginning my approach up the snow field. To sum up the trip in two words “Wet Feet.”

I will say that conditions were untypical maritime soggy snow pack and wetter than usual. I am also aware that the EVO’s are Gore-Tex and more suited for wet(ish) conditions. Yet for the price and being described as a technical mix boot for longer approaches I assumed that these types of approaches would include snow. The Prime was wet within hours of my feet hitting snow.

I would like to preface this by stating that I am an X professional mountaineering guide who has years of experience in this type of conditions in Southeastern Alaska and I know how to keep dry…these skills were a lost cause on the Trango Prime. The Primaloft liner was impossible to dry and actually took better than 3 days to dry in my home back in Colorado.

I would run the EVO’s with a light overboot if you needed that added warmth as the Prime will do you little to no good once wet…which they will be.

I couldn't agree more with Billie Prescott - these boots are NOT waterproof. During a 5 day trip of the Bernese Oberland I had a similar experience. My toes were squelching in water after a day in deepish snow. The upper parts of the boots and my socks were fine, (so no seepage through the top - due to the GORETEX gaiters) but I had to wring out the lower ends of my socks when I arrived at the mountain hut. (Embarrassingly, I was the only one who had to do this).

I believe the materials used may be ok 'in theory' (e.g. when immersed in a bucket of water) but in the field they simply just don't work. I have never had this problem with other boots.

Great mountaineering boot with option for automatic crampons. Is great for ice climbing and mix climbing in mountains.

I was choosing between these and some other heavier models but decided for this one on recommendation from my friends. 

It fits my feet great and is very comfortable.

I used these boots in different snow conditions and never got them wet inside. 

Temp control is main disadvantage of this boots in my opinon, but if you are not planning to use them in very cold weather it should be fine. At lest it works for me.

They are also quite trendy so I use them on snowy days for school.

I have used them for two winters now.

I've used these boots three times on day hikes and temps were 10-35 degrees with snowshoes and Microspikes. Before I used the boots Sno Seal was put on the leather and stitching, no water came through while going through ankle high streams a few times, I had snowshoes and OR gaiters, so I can't comment on the integrated gaiters.